Surfing

Danny used to be a surfer in southern California, skipping school to ride waves all day, until at 17 he began traveling around the country. In his 20s, he lived in Hawaii and surfed for a while until he realized he might be shark bait. Then a few years ago, he tried it again, one day in 2000 in Santa Cruz with his brothers, Mickey and Jack, and one last time in 2001 in Honolulu. But, the Pacific Ocean will never stop beckoning to him and the thrill of watching big waves will always excite him.

Last night, one of the previews at the movies was for “Chasing Mavericks.” Mavericks near Half-Moon Bay in northern California is a very dangerous surfing spot, where deaths have occurred and great white sharks hunt. While the waves are spectacular for surfers, spectators need strong binoculars to see them. Surfers have to be towed a half-mile out by Sea-Do to begin their rides and then have to avoid the deadly reefs onto which the waves crash. However, weather permitting, there is an annual surfing contest there…That said, we will be going to see “Chasing Mavericks” when it comes out later this month.

This morning I woke up with Danny and his ocean on my mind:

Surfing

Upon white crested waves,
Ride those
Daring of life.

They shoot through wet tunnels,
Their souls
Free of strife.

At ride’s end into water
Their bodies
Plunge like a knife.

Then they repeat their feat,
With joy
In their hearts rife.

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About Cyranette

I have been writing since I was 11 and am now a grandmother of 9. Aside from my family, I love writing, reading, movies, gardening, genealology, and travel. I met my soulmate online and we've been married 18 years. I am a survivor of rape, abuse, and cancer. I believe in love, kindness, and common sense. I was born/raised in Indiana and have lived in Massachusetts, Texas, and California. I have visited: most of the United States, British Columbia, Germany, Austria, and Costa Rica. My husband and I would like to visit England, Europe, and New Zealand and to take a train ride along the Canadian/American border. I have written essays, articles, short stories, a romance novel, a self-help book, and several children's books.
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3 Responses to Surfing

  1. mskatykins says:

    And not a single mention of The Beach Boys…! 😉 Wow, what a thrill seeker! I’m far too easily freaked out for that kind of thing. I’m big on swimming but not in the open water…

    Like

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