Danny used to be a surfer in southern California, skipping school to ride waves all day, until at 17 he began traveling around the country. In his 20s, he lived in Hawaii and surfed for a while until he realized he might be shark bait. Then a few years ago, he tried it again, one day in 2000 in Santa Cruz with his brothers, Mickey and Jack, and one last time in 2001 in Honolulu. But, the Pacific Ocean will never stop beckoning to him and the thrill of watching big waves will always excite him.
Last night, one of the previews at the movies was for “Chasing Mavericks.” Mavericks near Half-Moon Bay in northern California is a very dangerous surfing spot, where deaths have occurred and great white sharks hunt. While the waves are spectacular for surfers, spectators need strong binoculars to see them. Surfers have to be towed a half-mile out by Sea-Do to begin their rides and then have to avoid the deadly reefs onto which the waves crash. However, weather permitting, there is an annual surfing contest there…That said, we will be going to see “Chasing Mavericks” when it comes out later this month.
This morning I woke up with Danny and his ocean on my mind:
Upon white crested waves,
Daring of life.
They shoot through wet tunnels,
Free of strife.
At ride’s end into water
Plunge like a knife.
Then they repeat their feat,
In their hearts rife.